Worm Castings Cancel The title field is required!

1. Patrick Warnock

   

   0 posts
   
   1/14/2015 12:01 PM

   With spring approaching I have recently been reaching out too peers at other courses in my local area for advice on controlling/suppressing worm castings on my greens. My course in located in south Georgia...Vidalia to be more specific (Yes, we're famous for our onions ) During spring and summer the worm castings are horrible...so much that when mowing or rolling greens the unit must be stopped and rollers wiped clean after nearly every pass. In the past I've sprayed Carbaryl, Sevin SL brand, and have seen control for about 2-2.5 weeks. The Carbaryl works great, but the short amount of control time makes for many repeated applications that can get very pricey! Does anyone have any suggestions/advice on other ways to control them? Is there any cultural practices that could help control them? I'm not sure if anyone else encounters the same problem or in the same severity but asking for a little advice never hurt! Thanks!!

   
   
   
   
2. James Smith

   

   112 posts
   
   1/14/2015 2:01 PM

   We use Aloft which works about 3-4 months! $600 a shot though but well worth it.
   
   Something to think about when trying to decide if you can afford a chemical to control your castings is this
   
   we used scrapers on our rollers to keep them clean but then you have to whip the greens to clean up the droppings. so you have extra cost in whips, man hours as well as the cost of the scrapers
   
   The castings that come off your green is your expensive topdressing sand mixed with organics. every bit you take off into the collars and wipe off is slowly reducing your greens height (yes ever so slowly but every day).
   
   I started just paying for the aloft and find everything in much better shape and my operators get finished a lot sooner in the morning.

   
   
   
   
3. Stephen Johnson

   

   0 posts
   
   1/14/2015 3:01 PM

   I've not ever tried it but have been told that Arena will also help control castings.
   If you have a Dollar Spot problem or even Brown patch the use of 3336 will control your disease at label rates and casting are also reduced.
   The product Early Bird 3-0-1 It is Manufactured by Ocean Organics and derived from Oil Seed Meal, Kelp Extract, and Composted Poultry Liter.
   At 3-6 pounds/1000ftsq it isn't cheap at $52/50# bag but it does work. It must be watered in to about a 1/4" to achieve the full effect.

   
   
   
   
4. Adam Stottlemyer

   

   0 posts
   
   1/16/2015 6:01 AM

   Early bird does a good job, the worms do not like the seed oil. I've had great success with it, but as the gentleman above me stated, it's not cheap. I would recommend higher amount of irrigation/rainfall then 1/4" though. I saw the best results after 1"+ of rainfall or watering it in with a hose, and going over it a few times.
   
   Products are out there with saponins in them. I know there was a product that can be put in your sprayer and sprayed out and watered in, rather then by a spreader. Not sure of the name. I think there's one like Sapyn or something like that, I believe it's spelled different then the actual word saponin.

   
   
   
   
5. John Boyce

   

   0 posts
   
   2/6/2015 8:02 AM

   Area works very well and provides lasting control. It is expensive. United Turf Alliance (UTA) makes a post patent arena called Guillotine. It is still an expensive app but is less than Arena and Aloft and works just as well. And I believe UTA is located in GA.
   http://www.utaarmortech.com/products/insecticides#7
   
   good luck.

   
   
   
   
6. Jack Tripp

   

   3 posts
   
   2/6/2015 4:02 PM

   Anyone try the Early Bird liquid formulation on worm casts?
   
   Jack Tripp
   La Crosse Country Club
   Onalaska, WI

   
   
   
   
7. Peter McPartland

   

   0 posts
   
   5/2/2016 8:05 PM

   What does everyone use to apply early bird with? We have had no luck using a Lely tow behind spreader, I've had to resort to a top dresser. Anyone else have issues

   
   
   
   
8. Benjamin Getman

   

   0 posts
   
   1/24/2017 12:01 PM

   Peter McPartland said: What does everyone use to apply early bird with? We have had no luck using a Lely tow behind spreader, I've had to resort to a top dresser. Anyone else have issues

   
   
   
   I use a Vicon spreader and go wheel to wheel on my fairways. For smaller areas like tees and prowalks I use a walk spreader. I've found that 6lbs/1000sqft is a good rate, but needs a good shot of water to reach desired effect. I try to time my apps with spring rainfall events, but not always so easy when the skies are blue.

   
   
   
   
9. David Wetenkamp

   

   0 posts
   
   1/24/2017 1:01 PM

   I also tried Early Bird after reading a GCM article on its use. I was able to time it with a .25 in rain and I was pushing worms off with a snow shovel the next morning. I could have opened a bait shop. I think I applied at a .5lb/M with an Earthway walk-behind. This was 4 years ago at a course that was shut down so I don't have my old records anymore, just going off memory. I was going to apply it again a month later but that was when I found out I was out of a job in a month. Anyway, I am a big believer in that product and its a better natural product to use if you have to deal with public perception.

   
   
   
   
10. Rocky Tharp

    

    0 posts
    
    1/24/2017 8:01 PM

    Thiophanate methyl sprayed at about 3-4 oz/1000 and watered in will do the trick for a month or so. We use it on fairways with our PCNB apps and it works great but there are label restrictions to how much you can spray. I think you can do two apps on fairways, probably more on greens but you'd have to check the label.
    
    Rocky Tharp
    Interbay GC
    Seattle, WA

    
    
    
    
11. Stephen Okula

    

    3 posts
    
    2/2/2017 2:02 AM

    I'll second the thiophanate methyl. I've had good results at 3-4 lbs/acre of active ingredient, never bothered to water it in and generally got 6 month control in some dense worm populations.

    
    
    
    
12. James Smith

    

    112 posts
    
    3/7/2017 7:03 AM

    I'm curious why we have not seen any research trials done on worms. I know their listed as beneficial pest but really! we still have to keep them in check.
    
    Maybe someone with experience in the life cycle could chime in and let us know a few things like when we treat them are we killing them off and it just takes time for them to creep back on our greens? Are we getting the adults and the small ones are the ones returning a month later. I know most only treat when we have a problem but is there a method better like treating a week or two apart to try to knock out the small ones quicker?

    
    
    
    
13. Diaz Robert E

    
    3/17/2017 12:03 PM

    Check out the article in new GCM. Green stinkworm some of the control results looked good. Aloft?

    
    
    
    
14. Rocky Tharp

    

    0 posts
    
    4/15/2017 7:04 PM

    In our region most of the earthworms are actually non-native species, although they may be considered beneficial. I don't think applications of T-Methyl necessarily kill the worms but just makes it unpleasant for them to hang out at the surface. I don't have any scientific proof of that- just my observations bases on populations rebounding year after year.
    
    Rocky Tharp
    West Seattle Golf Course
    Seattle, WA

    
    
    
    
15. Edward Doda

    

    0 posts
    
    6/9/2017 10:06 AM

    A very wet year so far here in Ontario with some areas already past last years total rainfall for the growing season. Of course the worms love all the moisture and we have a problem with worm castings on some of our fairways. Sort of like the typical fall smudging of turf but I've never seen it this early. I will be spraying Arena on some fairways for grubs and wondered in regards to timing. If I spray now will it still control grubs later in the season>
    
    Next week I'm going to take out the verticut units for the greens that I never use and try to tidy up some of these areas. Maybe add some sand. Any other ideas?
    
    ed doda Barrie cc an hour north of toronto

    
    
    
    
16. mark gendron

    

    1 posts
    
    9/26/2022 6:09 AM in reply to Edward Doda

    Worms do not like acidic soil.  Applying iron sulfate (found in most lawn and garden stores) every 8 to 10 weeks will keep your soil on the acidic side.  The acidity created will work to keep them away.